The Modified Square Lashing was developed because of the difficulty usually experienced when tying a clove hitch to complete the traditional square lashing. The clove hitch that starts the lashing is easy enough to make, but tying a clove hitch at the end of the lashing is a different matter.
As shown in figure , the modified square lashing starts with a clove hitch. Also do not twist the short end around the standing part of the rope as in the traditional square lashing.
After tying the starting clove hitch, proceed as usual using the long end of the rope to make three wraps see figure Then make two frapping turns see figure To complete the lashing, bring up the short end of the rope that extends from the clove hitch and tie a square knot see figure Bring the short end up in the opposite direction of the frapping turns.
As in the Traditional Square Lashing, there is some disadvantage in having to make the complete lashing using the one end of the rope. This lashing is a straightforward approach to the task of lashing two spars together. When putting crossed braces on a structure to keep it from racking as used when making a trestle , the most important lashing is the diagonal lashing where the spars cross.
When the cross spars are properly assembled on the trestle, they will be standing apart where they cross. That is, there will be a few inches of space between the spars where they cross at the center of the X. To pull them tightly together, a timber hitch is used to start the lashing figure 1. As the timber hitch is pulled tight, the spars are sprung together. Next, three wraps are made in each direction across the X figures 2 thru 5.
After the wraps, make two frapping turns between the spars, pulling the wrapping turns tightly together and taking up any slack figures 6 and 7. Finally, tie a clove hitch on one spar to complete the lashing figures 8 thru When this lashing is added to the cross braces, it helps keep the trestle from racking.
Filipino Diagonal Lashing. The pattern you make with the rope for this lashing is the same as the one to make the whipping. The only difference is that this lashing is tied around two spars to hold them together.
To make this lashing, tie a series of half-knots overhand knots around the two spars see figure Tie one half-knot in front and the next half-knot in back see figure Make sure each half-knot is pulled up as tight as possible. After tying six to ten half-knots, finish off the lashing with a square knot see figure By using six to ten half-knots in this lashing, it makes it very strong and effective, but can be a little difficult to untie.
The West Country Round Lashing is used to tie two spars together to extend the overall length of the spars. When this is done, you should make two sets of lashings, not just one lashing. Make one lashing at each end of the overlapping spars. The main application for the Two-Spar Shear Lashing is when spar legs are to be spread apart to form an A-frame. The Two-Spar Shear Lashing starts with a clove hitch on one spar see figure After making the clove hitch, wrap the excess part of the short running end around the standing part of the rope see figure Unlike square lashings, the shear lashing requires eight or ten wraps around the spars before making the frapping turns between the spars to pull the wraps tight see figure This lashing then ends with a clove hitch on the other spar see figure Then you can take ten wrapping turns around the spars, making the wraps somewhat loose.
The legs can then be spread to the required distance. This should put strain on the wraps. With the legs apart, you can make the frapping turns around the wraps to pull them tight.
Finally, complete the lashing by tying a clove hitch on the opposite spar. The Somewhat Ambiguous Shear Lashing. Wrap the rope or cord around the spars a few times and finish with a Square Knot.
This is called a strop lashing. A strop lashing can be drawn down tight, or it can be made as a loose wrap so that it allows movement or acts as a hinge.
The strop lashing can have several simple applications at camp. Then use a light cord or binder twine to make two strop lashings about 1 foot apart to hold the staff to the stake see figure If your patrol just completed a signal tower and you want to show who did it, lash your patrol flag to the top of one of the legs with a strop lashing. The way to do that is to lash the two walkways to the transom at the center of the bridge with two or three strop lashings see figure The ends of the walkways also need to be held to stakes.
Use a strop lashing to hold the ends of the walkway to the stakes see figure In a diagonal lashing the wrapping turns cross the poles diagonally. A diagonal lashing is used when there is a need to close a gap between two spars or when they spring apart, in other words, when we want to bind poles together where they cross each other but do not touch. This most commonly occurs when the ends of the spars are already lashed in place in a structure, as in forming the X-brace of an H-Trestle.
Skip to content The following text and some of the drawings are by Adolph E. Peschke as presented in the printing of the edition of the Pioneering Merit Badge Pamphlet: We could imagine the first lashing made by man was wrapping a few strips of bark around a stone to hold it to a tree branch to make an ax to hunt and build with. Two-Spar Shear Lashing Diagram this drawing has been modified for the purpose of clarity Completed Shear Lashing Before the Spars have been Spread Shear Lashing After Spreading the Shear Legs Unlike square lashings, the shear lashing requires eight or ten wraps around the spars before making the frapping turns between the spars to pull the wraps tight see figure The most important step in splicing is the start.
Marry the strands correctly and the remaining steps follow easily. To properly prepare a rope for splicing, Take one strand 1 and lay it over its unlay the end adequately and whip each neighbour 2 , working anti-clockwise.
Four tucks will hold any splice providing that they are full strands i. Tapering off is done after the fourth tuck and is performed by reducing each of the strands by one-third with a knife; tuck again with the thinner strands and then reduce the strands by another third; and finally by tucking and trimming off close.
Bring down strand 2 over strand 1 and 3. However, as it causes a bulge at the end of the rope, which might prevent it from Take the end of strand 3 over strand, 2 and passing through a block, for most purposes down through the loop made by strand 1.
Tighten each strand in turn by pulling downwards. You are now ready to make the first which the ends should be trimmed of f. From above the Crown Knot you wish to taper your splice, after the should look like this: fourth tuck unravel each of the ends in turn and cut one-third of the yarns see page 2 off.
Tuck again with the thinner strands; reduce the strands by another third and then finish of f the splice with another tuck. Trim off the ends. Your untapered, untrimmed, completed Back Splice should look like this:.
With the marlinspike or nail, lift one of the strands of the rope immediately below the Crown Knot and pass the end of one of the strands underneath it.
Pull tight. Unlay the rope for a Working anti-clockwise, take the end of sufficient distance from the end, the next strand and pass it underneath the depending upon the size of eye required next laid strand of the rope. Then take the and the size of the rope. Normally, about third end and pass it under the third laid 12 times the diameter of the rope is about strand of the rope. You have right. After every completed tuck this whipping around the rope at the point should be the case.
On completion of the where the strands begin to unlay. This first tuck your Back Splice will look like whipping should be cut off after the splice this: is formed. With the eye towards you and the standing part of the rope away from you, open out the three strands.
Now complete the second tuck by passing each of the three ends under a strand in turn as described. At the end of your completed tuck the strands should hang down with an equal distance between them. Tug on each strand in turn. If your start has been done correctly the three strands should have an equal distance between them. Continue forming the splice by making four tucks in the same way as you did for the Back Splice described above. At the end of the fourth tuck, trim off the end of the strands, or taper the splice.
Short Splice 3. Pull it The Short Splice joins two ropes of equal through. It is the strongest of splices, but because it increases the diameter of the rope it cannot run through a block of the correct size for the rope.
Its bulk can be reduced by tapering the strands toward the end of the splice, but this weakens it somewhat. Unlay both ends of the rope for a distance about equal to 12 times the diameter of the rope.
A Place the two ends of the rope together 4. B Temporarily tie down the strands to whip as before, and make another full prevent the rope unlaying further. Again, untwist and slice about one third of the remaining yarn of each strand for the remaining tuck.
For synthetic rope, follow the same method as mentioned above, but allow one additional tuck with or without tapering. It is the easiest of all to form. It is a quick method of making a temporary eye a rope at any point and is often used on ridge tents to hold the dolly of the main guylines.
In most splices the lay of the rope is D Bring strand 2 over strand 5 and under opened and the tucks are made with the the next one. Open the lay at the chosen point in the rope and tuck the whole of the running end through the raised strand to make an eye of the required size A. Now open the lay of the standing part of E Bring strand 3 over strand 6 and under the rope immediately below the first tuck the next one.
You have now completed and pull the running end through until both the first tuck. As in all splices, remember to work against or across the lay.
After the second tuck make sure that the running end is of reasonable length so that there is no danger of it pulling out. F Remove the temporary tie and repeat the operation described above on the other rope end. Continue tucking the strands in sequence until you have done four tucks on each rope.
Trim the ends. To taper the splice, finish several complete tucks on each rope, then remove the whippings from the strands. With a sharp knife or razor cut about one third of the yarns from each strand. Well, the tripod is around the two spars, and then thread the made by lashing three spars together with two ends of the rope through the bight and, a figure-of-eight lashing. This lashing is as with a Timber Hitch, draw the two spars also used for making a gyn, which is a together.
Then continue as with the normal tripod used with block and tackle for diagonal lashing with two wrapping turns lifting heavy weights. The figure-of-eight is for lashing three spars together at the top when the bottom ends are to be opened out to make a tripod. Lay the spars alongside one another, tie a Clove Hitch around one of the outside spars, and twist the running end around the standing part of the rope. Now go over and under the three spars with the rope alternatively A like a figure-of-eight for seven or eight times B.
Frap between each spar, and finish off with a Clove Hitch C on the opposite outside spar to the one on which you started. Unlike most other lashings, with the figure-of-eight lashing the wrapping turns and the two frapping turns should not be tight as the lashing tightens when the legs of the tripod are opened out. To frap, take the two ends of the double The Filipino Diagonal Lashing rope between the spars in opposite The Filipino diagonal lashing serves the directions.
It is particularly useful when Finish off the lashing by joining the two lashing thin spars or bamboo spars toget- running ends together with a Reef Knot. Pull the f rapping turns tight and finish the lashing by joining the two running ends with a Reef Knot.
As with the normal square lashing and the Japanese Square lashing Mark I, the Mark II lashing is used when it is not necessary to spring the spars together before lashing them. It is probably the simplest of all the lashings to tie and the fastest. Double the lashing rope and place the bight around the back of the upright spar above the crosspiece. Take the two running ends over the horizontal spar and cross them at the back of the upright spar A.
Bring them forward and over the horizontal spar and cross them at the back of the upright spar. Continue in this fashion until you have made four wrappings. Make two frappings by crossing the rope ends and making the turns around the lashing between the spars.
Pull the frappings tight. Finish with a Reef Knot. Double the rope. This should be prepared before the Patrol meeting. Note that the locking bar is moveable and is square-lashed to the crossbar of the sheer legs, but merely rests in the crutch of the back legs. The angle of fire can be adjusted simply by moving the locking bar in the crutch. The DERRICK POST is lashed to the face of a pair of sheer legs which are supported by a second pair braced backwards to form an extended back leg with back transoms lashed from the legs of the forward sheers to the apex of the back leg to form a rigid structure.
Note that any pioneering structure built of triangles will be rigid if the lashings are sound. Note that the back leg should be at least twice as long as the jib. The theory of the structure which you are invited to prove or disprove by trial and error is that a considerable load on the jib can be balanced by manual pressure alone on the end of the back leg.
Whether or not this crazy device will work is for you to discover. Certainly there will be plenty of interesting technical problems to solve. The firepower is obtained from a strong rubber band cut from a car inner tube and secured catapult-fashion between two convenient branches.
The first and second tins have their bottoms cut out to make tubes; the third is open at one end only. This lies in the three tins. The carriage is catapulted down a steep, very taut line. Wire would give a much better result, if you can get it. A short distance above the target, another rubber band is bound on to the line to make a stopper.
The carriage is checked abruptly as it reaches the stopper, and the missile shoots onwards o embed itself in the target. Note that the maul is loosely secured in the crutch of the two back legs. The haft should slide fairly snugly between the two guide bars at the front of the structure. The operating lines run through small iron blocks at the top and bottom of the frame. Ropes: Lashings: Two 2.
The Hourglass Tower. Poles: mm x 5. Staves: 32 mm x 0. Rope: 12 mm x 6 m 40 lashings 12 mm x 10 m 2 tripod lashings 12 mm x 15 m 2 ladder 7 mm x 10 m 2 platform floor. Poles: mm x 3. Rope: 12 mm x 6 m 6 main lashings on sheer legs 12 mm x 15 m 4 guylines 10 mm x 5 m 6 steps to sheer legs 10 mm x 6 m 6 holdfasts 16 mm x 20 m 2 handrails 26 mm x 25 m 1 hawser 7 mm x 3 m 25 stringers.
Sundries: Block and Tackle 25 mm Strop Log 1. Open navigation menu. Close suggestions Search Search. User Settings. Skip carousel. Carousel Previous. Carousel Next. What is Scribd? Explore Ebooks. Bestsellers Editors' Picks All Ebooks. Explore Audiobooks. Bestsellers Editors' Picks All audiobooks. Explore Magazines. Editors' Picks All magazines. Explore Podcasts All podcasts. Difficulty Beginner Intermediate Advanced. Explore Documents. Basic Book of Knots and Lashings.
Uploaded by REBogart. Document Information click to expand document information Description: Basic knots and lashings used by sailors, farmers, ranchers, and Boy Scouts. Learn a few of these and you will use them for life. Original Title basic book of knots and lashings.
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